Kathmandu, located in Nepal, was the subject of a news article published by AFP. During a mountaineering season that has resulted in a minimum of twelve fatalities, a Nepali guide abandoned his client’s attempt to summit Everest to rescue a Malaysian climber.
During the expedition, Gelje Sherpa served as a guide for a Chinese client, leading them to the summit of the 8,849-meter (29,032-foot) peak. Additionally, Sherpa intended to assist the client during their paragliding descent.
At the “death zone,” a solitary individual was discovered clutching a rope and exhibiting signs of hypothermia, mere hundreds of meters away from the mountain peak.
The region above the altitude of 8,000 meters is commonly called the “death zone” due to its harsh climatic conditions characterized by low atmospheric pressure, sub-zero temperatures, and limited oxygen supply, which significantly increases the likelihood of altitude sickness. The area is well-known for its challenging topography.
Sherpa informed AFP that his emotions compelled him not to abandon the person at the location upon discovering the individual in that condition.
Several individuals had passed by the man on that particular day. However, he chose not to express any disapproval toward them.
According to the speaker, the location in question prioritizes individual survival.
The Sherpa advised the customer, who has paid a minimum of $45,000 to undertake the Everest challenge, which includes an $11,000 permit fee, to abandon the summit attempt.
Initially, the client did not concur with my decision to descend. The individual in question had invested significant funds and likely harbored a long-standing aspiration to visit the location to engage in climbing activities. Consequently, he made a concerted effort to carve out time to make the trip a reality.
The individual expressed frustration and verbally communicated a desire to reach the summit.
The individual in question was instructed to descend as they were under the care and responsibility of the speaker. The speaker deemed it inappropriate to allow the individual to continue their ascent to the summit unaccompanied. The individual was reprimanded accordingly. The individual exhibited emotional distress.
The individual expressed their intention to transport the ill individual from the elevated terrain.
Subsequently, he understood that the term ‘rescue’ referred to my intention to salvage him. The individual comprehended the situation and subsequently expressed regret at a later time.
The actions you have taken have resulted in the preservation of my life.
At the age of 30, Sherpa provided the ailing climber with a supplemental oxygen supply, which improved some of his symptoms. However, despite this intervention, the climber remained unable to ambulate.
Due to the rough and irregular landscape, Sherpa, who stands at approximately 1.6 meters (5 feet and 3 inches) and weighs 55 kilograms, had to assist the Malaysian individual by carrying them through certain portions of the terrain.
Transporting individuals and lowering them from an elevated location is challenging. Sherpa reported that certain sections were rocky and that he could not drag the individual.
If the action was taken, bone fracture was possible, particularly given the individual’s pre-existing condition.
The man was transported by Sherpa alone for approximately six hours, covering a distance of nearly 700 meters, until they reached Camp 4.
The individual stated that they have participated in numerous search and rescue operations. However, this particular mission posed a significant challenge.
The climber was assisted by two guides who utilized sleeping mats to wrap him and ropes to secure him. They transported him by dragging him on snowy slopes and carrying him on their backs as needed.
At 7,162 meters (23,500 feet), the climbers reached Camp 3. A helicopter was utilized to transport the injured climber to the base camp via a long line.
The Malaysian climber was unable to reunite with Sherpa. However, a message expressing gratitude was received by Sherpa.
Sherpa reported that the individual told him, “You saved my life; you are god to me.”
Nepali guides, primarily Sherpas hailing from the adjacent valleys of Everest, are widely acknowledged as the mainstay of the mountaineering sector. They undertake significant risks to transport equipment and food and establish ropes and mend ladders.
The video of Sherpa’s rescue operation from two weeks ago has garnered over 35,000 likes on his Instagram account and has been extensively shared on various social media platforms. Sherpa’s altruistic decision has been widely appreciated by many.
According to Ang Norbu Sherpa, the president of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association, guides experience a sense of accountability towards others on the mountain and are required to make difficult judgments.
The actions taken by him are praiseworthy.
Nepal granted 478 permits for foreign climbers to ascend Everest this season, setting a new record. Approximately 600 climbers and guides successfully reached the summit.
The confirmed number of deceased climbers is twelve, while the whereabouts of five others remain unknown.
Gelje Sherpa has successfully summited the world’s highest point on six occasions. On a particular day, Gelje Sherpa decided to turn back and did not experience any regret regarding this decision.
According to the speaker, individuals tend to concentrate solely on reaching the summit, achievable by anyone. Transporting an individual from an altitude greater than 8,000 meters poses a greater challenge than reaching the summit.